The Reluctant Adventurer

Desert Rose

2010-02-15T10:10:00.000-05:00

This trip has been long coming.

We've planned this ages ago. Separately.

I have been dreaming vivid hues against a background of terracotta plains. Of cacophony of sounds and assault of sights. And of oasis of calm. A juxtaposition of state of mind.

The only thing we were not planning at that point of dreaming was the fact that we got married. And had a baby.

So we packed up our 5.5 month-old baby girl and headed for Marrakech. Desert rose as it's affectionaly known.

She did not disappoint. The city. (And so did our baby - did not disappoint that is.)

We were welcomed at an international airport oozing in modern architecture. The ever so gentle breeze a surprise once we got passed the security of the glass airport doors. The desert plains and the palm trees in the distance.

We were mesmerised. Instantly.

For 8 nights, we were part of the family at Riad Porte Royale. Philip the riad's owner ensured we got a room with a bath-tub (our babe after all needs all the pampering she can get). Mohamed took care of all our needs (from arranging a trip to the Atlas mountains to finding an open pharmacy on a Sunday where we can purchase an extra can of formula milk when the one we brought with us was running out!). Hajiba was there to ensure that we had all our meals taken care of. And for the life of me, this other elderly woman whose name escapes me - also went marketing, cooked and ensured we slept in made up rooms each time we came home exhausted from conquering yet another hidden alleyway in the souks.

Meandering the cobbled dusty streets of the old town. Tackling the crazy-near-suicidal traffic. Getting lost in the souks. Beating the heat of Marrakech with mint tea. I was constantly intrigued. Of course, my brains were working overtime - remembering that landmark of vivid blue doorway just after the passageway arch. Remembering the nth right turn we had taken on exit of the riad iron doors.

My friends thought we were suicidal to tackle Marrakech with a 5.5 month old baby. I think so too sometimes. The thought of carrying my baby in my arms crossing the at the busy traffic light with traffic that has absolutely no regard for the the amber or red lights for that matter just sends shivers down my spine. But all is forgiven when my memories fleet to the times, total strangers - local Marrakech folks (women and little girls) just came up to our baby and kissed her. (Ok, hubs freaked out after about the third kiss from a total stranger). This is the thing - everyone, and I mean E.V.E.R.Y.O.N.E loves babies in Marrakech. Even the local 7 year olds - I kid you not.

There's so much to tell about Marrakech. Words escape me.

Marrakech is really a city to be experienced.

We're already plotting another return. When our baby is a bit older.

For now, please link yourself here and here for teasers of Marrakech.

Surfing Bali

2008-12-28T05:30:00.003-05:00

Bali is a paradise island of Indonesia.

It is also the largest tourist destination of the country. It's no wonder with the many beaches of pure white sand and exotic black sand, coral reefs surrounding the entire island. Indian Ocean in the expanse view.

Post 9/11, the 2002 Bali bombings was one of the worst in our modern history. It's the worst act of terrorism in Indonesian history. But don't let this deter you from the island's beauty.

6 years later, M and I set foot on the island.

And it immediately hits you. The people. Their pride and resilience. With the many beach front hotel properties dotting the coastline of Bali (read: massive tourist crowd), I opted to put us up for the next few days, in a boutique villa hotel in the sleepy fishing town of Sanur.

Sanur is close enough to the beautiful beaches of Jimbaran, Nusa Dua and Legian, and the main town of Kuta, and only a 45-minute car ride away from the cultural centre of the island, Ubud.

We got the best of the worlds staying in The Gangsa by the unmistable Kayumanis group. With less than 20 villas, staying at The Gangsa exceeded our expectations. For someone who is working in the hospitality industry, M was thoroughly impressed.

Upon arrival, we were received by the airport's representatives and given priority clearance at the immigration upon arrival (and again at departure). Airport transfer to and from the hotel. Every imaginable hospitable gestures you could think of. I opted for a "Romance package" which includes a picnic in a higher altitude "surprise" spot on the island and a candle lit dinner in the privacy of our villa.

We were impressed (again I can't say that enough!). For anyone who is a self-disciplined vegetarian on Fridays, the people in Gangsa, ensured we had all sorts of imaginable food available for a vegetarian.

But really, it's about the island, and its people. The Balinese will go out of their way to make your stay more comfortable and pleasurable. Sure, like in all cultures and developing cities, there will be oppotunistic people but put that aside.

My word of advice when in Bali, go with the flow and enjoy what the island and its people have to offer.

You'll be dreaming of returning to the island as soon as you give that credit card to the front desk upon check-out.

Cambodia Travel Blogs

2008-10-31T19:28:00.001-04:00

Our individual trips to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Read about our different experiences of course with photos!

Inspira's Travel Report: (Un)reap(ed):(Un)defeat(ed)

Mini's Travel Report: Destination Angkor

My Iceland Travel Blog

2008-10-31T19:20:00.001-04:00

Read about my self drive vacation around Iceland! Summer (August) 2008. See photos of the sights we visited.

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Iceland Featured in a Dentyne Gum Commercial !

2008-10-03T16:44:00.004-04:00

I was flipping channels the other day and an image of the black beach at Vik (my favorite place in Iceland!) flashed across the screen. I instantly recognized the troll rocks :)

Anyway for those of you heading to Iceland, do check out the Dentyne Ice - Iceland Commercial. It really captures the beauty of Iceland. Much better than the Dharma Initiative-esque ones on the Iceland tourism site! Haha!

Here's a screen capture of the commercial. Love!!! Perhaps you may recognize the other places in Iceland featured. Please post it in my comments box, I would love to know!

Galapagos Trip Report - Day 1 - Swimming with Penguins

2008-09-26T14:54:00.006-04:00

Locations Covered: Bartolome Island Galapagos

The tingly feeling in my fingers finally went away as soon as we touched ground in the Galapagos on TAME airlines! I was so relieved. I'm not going to die from AMS in Ecuador after all. (You must realize I am a bit of a drama queen by now!)

We were picked up by our guide from the airport to start our 5 day 4 night cruise of the Galapagos on the Seaman yacht. The boat didn't look that large from afar but it was quite spacious on board. Our cabin was small with a bunk bed but clean.

Before we even got on the boat, we already had our first sighting of a seal lounging on a bench at the harbor. The animals here are absolutely fearless of humans!

I was so excited!

After lunch and logistics, we docked near Bartolome and hopped on pangas to the island. The Panga is an inflatable motor raft that ferries people from where the ship has anchored to shore.

We had a couple hours here to swim and sunbathe. We're off to a such great start! This is one of my favorite Galapogos photos of all time. You get to swim with cute little penguins.

(The beach at Bartolome)

I have to warn that the water is a little cold however. Thankfully I'd purchased a short wet suite before hand. You can also snorkel here and see all kinds of fish!

After the swim it was back on the boat for a little bit as we sailed to another side of the island where we could ascend the summit trail just in time for sunset. There are some wooden stairs and a sandy pathway to the top.

The view from the top was spectacular. Here you can see all the peaks formed from volcanic activity. I'm really loving this place.

When we got back to the boat, we had some time to lie around on the deck followed by dinner and a briefing of the next day's activities. The chefs on board cook a variety of dishes. There's usually chicken, fish, vegetables, rice, potatoes, dessert and fruit. The style of cooking is homey and healthy. They are also very accommodating if you have food restrictions.

Deck for sunbathing and napping:

Dinner:

What I wish I'd Known - Tips for You

You don't have to bring your own snorkeling equipment. You can rent one on the board for about $15.

I don't SCUBA dive but this was offered on our boat. People who'd like to scuba go out on excursions very early in the morning so it doesn't interfere with day activities.

Bring a short suit if you're going when the waters are cold (August)

Ecuador Travel Guide - Start your Planning Here!

2008-09-25T15:40:00.008-04:00

This guide is for the independent traveler. I like planning my own vacation for more flexibility and control (ok I admit I am part control-freak). No need for travel agents!

Resources

Mini's Ecuador Itinerary - Includes Quito and the Galapagos (Cruise + Island Stay) - 12 days

Ecuador Top 10 Facts- My version of Cliff Notes

Ecuador Vendor Review - Zenith Travel: Ecuador based agent

Galapagos Cruise Review - Seaman Yacht

Quito Hotel Review - Hostal Jardin Del Sol

Should I book a 5 or 8 day cruise to the Galapagos?

My Ecuador Trip Report | Diary
Ecuador and the Galapaogs - A dream vacation
Day 1: Quito - Otavalo, Peguche Falls
Day 2: Quito - Old Town
Day 3: Galapagos Cruise Day 1
Day 4: Galapagos Cruise Day 2

Cambodia - Siem Reap - FAQs

2008-09-25T14:18:00.005-04:00

Cliff notes for planning a vacation in historic Siem Reap:

FAQ
1)What is the difference between hiring a Tuk Tuk driver and hiring a Tour Guide?
2)Will I need to book a tour guide before I arrive?
3)How will I get around in the evenings?
4)Will I need special medication or vaccinations before the trip?
5)List of authorized guides and tuk tuk drivers (from TripAdvisor)
6) How much does it cost to enter the grounds of Angkor?
7) What is the weather like?
8) Will I need a visa?

1)What is the difference between hiring a Tuk Tuk driver and hiring a Tour Guide?
Tuk tuk drivers can take you into the ruins of Angkor but CANNOT walk with you through the ruins. They will wait for you at a specified spot. This may or may not be a disadvantage depending on the driver. Some are very friendly with interesting stories to tell. This option is also cheaper. Price is approximately $12 a day.

Authorized Tour Guides typically have their own vehicles (car or van). This is suited for larger groups. Tour guides are identified by their uniform and can accompany you through the ruins explaining their history and significance. They usually have secondary level or higher education (according to our guide). However their level of enthusiasm is not always correlated to their qualifications. Cost is approximately US$25 a day for the guide plus an addition $25-$35 depending on the vehicle you choose (car or van). Worthwhile if you have a bigger group.

2) Will I need to book a tour guide before I arrive?
That would be a good idea. One thing to note is that sometimes the guide you contact from the website or whom you emailed may NOT be the one who actually shows up! Verify with them to see if they are indeed the ones conducting the tour.

(This actually happened to us. My friend recommended Mr X (I can't remember his name) as a wonderful guide. When we arrived we were rudely surprised to find that he had sent someone else. )

3)How will I get around in the evenings?
Tuk tuks are the way to go and cheap. Negotiate your price before getting on board. It should be approximately $US2-3.

4) Will I need special medication or vaccinations before the trip?
There are no required vaccinations or health certifications aside from the typical travel vaccinations like tetanus. However, malaria is common as is dengue fever. You should also take a course of malaria medication and bring lots of insect repellent!

5) List of Authorized Siem Reap Guides and Tuk Tuk Drivers

Here are some guides that are recommended on TripAdvisor:
Angkor Guides - Authorized Guide
Angkor Service - Authorized Guide
Driver in Siem Reap - Non authorized guide
Tuk Tuk Driver - Pik Savuth
Siem Reap Taxis

IMPT: Please confirm that the guide advertised on the site is the one who show up on the day itself. (See #2)

6) How much is the entrance fee to the grounds of Angkor Wat?
You can buy the tickets on the way into the grounds. The pricing is:
US$20 for 1 day
US$40 for 3 days
US$60 for 7 days

7)What is the weather like?
Sweltering hot and humid. Pack tank tops and light clothing. Don't even think of re-wearing anything without washing it! :) December is supposed to be slightly cooler but more crowded.

8) Will I need a visa?
Get one at the airport. A passport photo is required. The price is $20.
If you want to beat the line at the airport, get an e-Visa online.

Please leave us a comment or send us an email if we are missing any questions from our FAQ.

Domestic Airlines - South East Asia

2008-09-24T00:39:00.003-04:00

Here are some useful web sites. Coming from the U.S., we found that tickets booked through U.S. sites and agents were MUCH higher than if you booked the same flights via local websites. This is specifically for flights within South East Asia.

Airlines for jetting around South East Asia

Air Asia - Discount carrier based in Malaysia
JetStar Asia - Budget carrier from Singapore
SilkAir - Subsidiary of Singapore Airlines
Tiger Airways - Budget carrier from Singpore
Zuji.com - This is an aggregator like Orbitz.

Cambodia Travel Guide - Start your planning here!

2008-09-24T00:30:00.009-04:00

The ruins of Angkor Wat near Siem Reap are a perfect long weekend getaway if you're based in South East Asia (Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia). The temples of Angkor are easily explored in 2 to 3 days, unless you're a temple historian! This even includes some time for a spa treatment and a visit to Tonle Sap (1/2 day trip)!

Cambodia Resources

Domestic Airlines and Flight Booking Sites

Travel Fish Cambodia - South East Asia's version of the Lonely Planet

FAQ

Cambodia Trip Reports
Read about our adventures with personal anecdotes and tips.

Inspira's Travel Report: (Un)reap(ed):(Un)defeat(ed)

Mini's Travel Report: Destination Angkor

Destination Angkor - Trip Report

2008-09-21T01:25:00.002-04:00

Places Visited: Temples of Angkor, Tonle Sap,
Psar Cha, (Siem Reap)

I visited Siem Reap last summer (2007) with my parents and in-laws. Ain't I brave? Fortunately no fighting broke out and we were all cordial! Perhaps we have the Angkor beer to thank.

We spent 2 and a half days in Siem Reap.

Day 1 Trip Report: To Market and Tonle Sap
Day 2 Trip Report: The Temples of Angkor Wat

Day 1: To Market and Tonle Sap
We arrived bright and early and were met by our guide who showed us around town. He took us to several places including a crafts school, the old market, lunch in the town center and a short visit to Tonle Sap.

I love this photo at the old market ( psar chas ), doesn't it feel like we've stepped back in time?

At Tonle Sap, we got on an old boat and toured the lake. The lake wasn't particularly spectacular however it was seeing the lives of the boat people that really made an impact. Most of the families are very poor however they don't let that get them down:

A happy child:

The boat people:

If you'd like to go to Tonle Sap, just let your guide or tuk tuk driver know and they can make the appropriate arrangements for you. No advance booking necessary. If you're interested in doing a boat cruise down the river check out Tara Boat. (Don't ask me why anyone would want to do this?!)

I ended the day relaxing by the pool. Dinner was in the hotel accompanied by an Apsara dance.

Day 2: The Magnificent Temples of Angkor Wat
We got up early to catch the sun rise which is said to be spectacular. Nature and I don't always get along. The conditions that morning weren't set up for an awe inspiring one.

The rest of the morning was spent touring Bayon, Ta Phrom, and Angkor Thom. I don't remember the names of the rest of the temples, however, travelfish.org has great descriptions of the lesser known sights at Angkor.

Here's our guide pretending to be an Apsara dancer:

Now presenting Angkor Wat:

I managed to climb to the top of Angkor Wat. Even though there are steps, the incline is literally 90 degrees. This was quite a feat for me since I am afraid of heights! I really don't know how the monks go and down so casually without any support?!

Note: I'm not sure if you can get to the top of Angkor Wat anymore. I read recently that the stone steps are worn out and are being refurbished.

Paradise in the Straits

2008-09-20T09:39:00.004-04:00

Imagine being marooned on an island, millions of years in the making, golden sands, crystalline blue waters, soft cool breezes.

Sounds dreamy?

Pangkor Laut island is a privately owned island off the West Coast of Malaysia, somewhere in the Straits of Malacca.

Lush, untouched rainforest nestle the 300-acre island, providing a sanctuary for the only resort on the island - Pangkor Laut Resort.

The late tenor Luciano Pavarotti once famously exclaimed " ..how beautiful God has made this paradise... " upon setting foot on the resort.

M surprised me with a 4-day weekend stay in Pangkor Laut Resort (on Pangkor Laut island) for our first year wedding anniversary. Where better to spend a romantic 4-day weekend?

To get to the island though feels like I have signed up for the Amazing Race. Ok. It wasn't that bad - I just like the drama of tellling a story of how we spent hours en route to the island.

Flying in to Kuala Lumpur from Singapore was easy enough with an overnight stay at one of the many hotels downtown.

Up early, we were whisked to Subang Airport to catch a flight on Berjaya Air. First tip: Please ensure enough time for travel time between KLIA and Subang Airport for those arriving international. Check flight schedule for erjaya Air as it does not fly everyday and may delay flights if there are not enough passengers on the flight.

Barely an hour later and we are on Pangkor Island, the bigger and more touristy sister of Pangkor Laut island (note the almost similar names - don't get confused!). There we got there, our luggage was taken care of by the staff of Pangkor Laut Resort and having lucked out at being treated like one of the rich and famous (if only we were!), we promptly plonked ourselves into a short ferry ride to Pangkor Laut island.

(Of course, you have a lot of extra cash lying around, you can always opt for a private helicopter ride from Kuala Lumpur straight onto Pangkor Laut island for US$5,000 per person. Of course that already hefty price tag may have got heftier with the rising fuel costs etc.)

And what a sight welcomed us in the distance: Pangkor Laut island is everything I see in the pictures. Pangkor Laut Resort is swoon-worthy. The resort blended seamlessly with the surroundings, respecting the nature.

For the next 4 days, M and I indulged in nothing but rest and relax. You want it, you got it. There's everything for everyone. Tennis for those who want to sweat it out after a hearty breakfast. Snorkelling and jungle trekking for the adventurous. Sun-bathing and spa treaments for those seeking pampering sessions.

On our third afternoon on Pangkor Laut island, we met a British couple who having travelled around the asian continent for 2.5 months prior, made Pangkor Laut island their last stop. A whopping 9 nights on the island!

Now, I love Pangkor Laut island but 9 nights on the island is really waaay too much. Said British couple agreed. It's not that there is nothing to do but really, it's more of our accustomed ways of wanting to do more and see more. So if you're like me, who gets antsy easily and suffers from an acute case of ADD, then I'd say 4/5 nights on the island is enough to recharge your batteries.

Don't let geography deter you from experiencing what Pangkor Laut island offers. Despite the rather out-of-the-way location of the island and the hours in travel to reach it, trust me, Pangkor Laut island takes your breath away.

Recommended Siem Reap | Cambodia Hotels

2008-09-20T00:52:00.006-04:00

Angkor Wat - The grandest of them all!

Here are my picks for best hotels to stay at in Cambodia. Since Cambodia is a developing country, prices are lower than what you would expect to pay in other countries. This means you can afford to splurge!

I recommending booking your rooms on the following sites specializing in South East Asian travel for the best rates:

Asia Rooms

Zuji.com

FCC Angkor
I distinctly the colonial style of this hotel as we drove past it in Siem Reap. The hotel's restaurant looked so inviting with its high ceilings and airy balconies. The perfect place to relax with a cocktail after a day of playing Lara Croft!

I shall defer to Inspira's entry, (Un)reap(ed):(Un)defeat(ed) for a complete review.

Photo by Inspira

Hotel De La Paix
This hotel has received rave reviews from several of my friends. Hotel De La Paix is a boutique hotel situated in the heart of town steps away from restaurants and shops. Prices average $250 a night. The hotel was constructed in 2005 and is geared towards the technologically savy customer with its wireless internet, DVD players and accompanying iPods!

Photo courtesy of Hotel De La Paix's website.

Le Meridien Angkor
For those of you who are Starwood members like me, a wonderful option is the Le Meridien Angkor. This hotel costs approximately US$160 a night and is situated close to both the temples and the town center. Both a short tuk tuk ride away. (Approximately $US2 is a fair price.)

The service was wonderful. On our arrival we were treated to a lemongrass tea. The staff also left little mid afternoon treats daily in our hotel room. These ranged from macarons to marshmellows. Yum!

I really enjoyed lounging in the pool at the hotel since the weather is extremely hot and humid!

Finally, the hotel cafe serves up a decent breakfast buffet with lots of local fruit when you aren't in the mood to head out.

Amansara Siem Reap
I put Amansara at the end of the list because it's really the most ostentatious of all the resorts. This resort used to be the guesthouse of Cambodia's former King Sihanouk. Suites range from $750-$1000 per night and promises exclusivity, personalized service, and isolation from the outside world. A great honeymoon spot? They even arrange helicopter tours of the temples at Angkor!

(Un)Reap(ed) : Un(defeat)ed

2008-09-15T09:32:00.006-04:00

Siem Reap is hot : boiling over with tourists each month despite her searing heat.

My equally travel addict of a husband, M, was (thankfully) game for a quick whirlwind romance with the city. Now, it may not count for a lot but for someone who breaks out in violent itchy rashes when exposed too long in the sun, it's a sacrifice.

Like I said, Siem Reap is hot. I mean seriously folks. We went in the cooler period in early February this year and I wish I had portable a/c with me. So first tip of the day, avoid the Northen Hemisphere's spring if you can, unless your idea of a vacation is being burnt to a crisp and bringing in your back-pack, bottles of sunblock with the highest SPF protection.

Right. Back to our whirlwind romance with the city.

Siem Reap is the gateway to the magnificent temples of Angkor.

We were hit by the magnificent padi fields in the background immediately upon landing at the modern international airport. Smiling faces greeted us. We were immediately taken in.

So, I had dreams of exploring the ruins, prancing about in my overweight frame reminiscent of Lara Croft. I also day-dreamed that I had the kind of moolah Lara Croft amassed so, the best we could afford on our day jobs, is FCC Angkor - a refurbished French Governor's mansion. A boutique 20-odd-room hotel embracing the art deco style whilst retaining its refined quiet elegance. Sipping cocktails on the verandah overlooking the Siem Reap river is a nice relaxing way to chill after a hard day exploring the temple ruins in Angkor.

The temples at Angkor are every bit I imagined. Colossal. Beautiful. Awe-inspiring.

In seeing these magnificent architecture, you are forced to learn the history of how the Khmer civilisation built the temples in the 12th century. The steep and small steps up to the top of the temples are meant to be climbed up and down on all fours, with your back towards the ground, as a sign of respect for the kings who may be sitting at the top of the steep steps in the temples.

Before I forget, please please please ensure you wear good walking shoes. I cannot stress that enough. I have seen a few tourists in the name of vanity, wear platforms (!!) --> huh? I hate to think how badly twisted their ankles got climbing all that steps. And oh, bring as many pairs of socks as you can (you will need to change them everyday, trust me on this).

Whizzing by in Siem Reap is easy and quick in a Tuk-Tuk though be prepared to get dirty and choked by the dust and debris from the booming construction. Lesson learnt : white T-shirt at 8am turned muddy red by 5pm.

Eat local food. Please. No point going to a foreign country and eat burger and fries, is there? Cambodian cuisine is much like Thai food. But for those who cry at the mere sight of a chilli pod, fret not, Cambodian cuisine is far less spicy.

M and I had our meals mostly included in our room stay in FCC Angkor. So for our last night in Siem Reap, we hit Viroth's Restaurant - a semi-alfresco restaurant serving authentic Khmer cuisine. Mention Viroth's to any Tuk-tuk driver and they'll know it immediately. Be prepared to wait a while if you haven't made reservations though!

All in all, I love Siem Reap - I love the laid back city, fighting to get back on her feet after the genocidal Khmer rule in the 70s. Her people captured my heart, smiling.

Iceland Travel Guide - Start your planning here!

2008-09-12T02:12:00.015-04:00

Planning a vacation to Iceland?

This is everything you need to know for anyone researching trips to Iceland! This includes travel resources from hotels and cars and things I wish I had known before heading to Iceland!

Resource Pages

Iceland: My 10 Day Driving Itinerary - All mapped out!

Iceland Car Rental - All you need to know about driving in Iceland

Iceland Hotels - Some websites where you can book rooms.

Ferry Baldur - Sail from Snaefellenes to the West Fjords

Iceland Weather - Don't bother with weather.com, this site shows the temperature, wind, from Iceland's Meteorological office for all Icelandic cities. All in English

Air Iceland - Domestic Flights within Iceland (Pretty cheap at $90 each way)

Iceland Travel Store - Don't leave home without these essentials!

See Iceland's Vik beach in a Dentyne Ice Video Commercial

Did you remember everything for your trip?
Visit our Iceland Travel Store to find out.

My Iceland Diary
With photos and info on the hotels we stayed at.

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Iceland - My 10 Driving Day Itinerary !

2008-09-11T00:45:00.005-04:00

It took a bit of work planning our self drive vacation through Iceland. Having a limited number of days to work with, I wanted to cover as much as I could without sacrificing the whole experience.

As you know, getting time off is hard to come by and I think we did pretty well in 10 days. We visited the main sights such as the Golden Circle, Skaftafell National Park, Jokulsarlon, Myvatn area, the West Fjords, and even Askja in the interior! Obviously, we could have used more time but this was the perfect combination for us.

I've mapped out the route we took in Google Maps and I think would be really helpful. Wish there was a site like this when I was planning my trip! Just click on the map to zoom in further.

View Larger Map

My Iceland Diary
With photos and info on the hotels we stayed at.

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Iceland Car Rental

2008-09-10T18:00:00.009-04:00

Renting a car in Iceland is expensive. Not surprising I guess since everything IS expensive. I think it's about economies of scale. Not enough people and a limited summer.

Anyway the major car rentals in Iceland are listed below. We went with ALP.is (which is really run by Budget). They offered the best rate I could find of about US$90 a day for a small compact car (Toyota Yaris). If you pay before hand the rate is slightly lower. It cost us about USD$40 to gas up each time. Not too bad!

FAQs:
1) Do I need an SUV
2) Will I need an Iceland road map?
3) What are the major car rental agencies in Iceland?
4) What are the driving distances between cities in Iceland?

Do I need an SUV?
If it's in the summer and you aren't planning on camping off the beaten path then a 2WD is perfectly fine. Your rental agreement allows you to travel on gravel roads though NOT "F" roads as seen on the maps. The 2WD will take you through the West Fjords and all the major tourist sites.

Will I need an Iceland Road Map? Are the guide books sufficient?
You will need one because the maps in the usual guide books are inadequate. (I used Lonely Planet and Rough Guide). We wanted to use our GPS but there are no Iceland maps for TomToms. :(

We ended up buying a complete Iceland book of driving maps. It cost us US$40. But hey we had no choice, but you my friends, can avoid this!

Support me and buy your Iceland map by clicking on these links! :)

Waterproof Map of Iceland - $11.95 on Amazon

Lonely Planet Iceland - $15.63 on Amazon

Rough Guide Iceland - $15.95 on Amazon

List of Car Rental Agencies

ALP ( Always Low Price | Budget )

RA Recommended! Pick up from the airport (Keflavik | Intl) or BSI Bus Terminal (within walking distance from the city). Unlimited mileage.

Berg Car Rental They have service stations throughout Iceland as well.

Atak Car Rental Available at airport (international), BSI (bus terminal in Reykjavik), and any Reykjavik Hotel

AVIS | Sixt Unlimited miles. Pick up from Keflavic Intl Airport or Reykjavik Hilton

National Car Rental Largest car rental in Iceland. Unique in that it offers many locations outside of Reykjavik so you can supplement your trip with flying. Looks good!

Hertz Iceland Lots of locations throughout the country as well (Akureyri, Isafjordor etc.) but this was the most expensive rental agency when I was searching at $180 for a compact.

I've listed the ones I like most but here's aComplete listing of car rental agencies.

What are the driving distances between cities in Iceland?
This table provides a comprehensive listing.

(Courtesy of the Iceland Tourism Board)

Bear in mind that the speed limit is 90km/hr on paved road. On gravel we were able to drive between 30-70km/hr depending on the quality and curvature of the roads.

Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

2008-08-31T03:05:00.003-04:00

Driving Route: Budir -> Borganes -> Reykjavik -> Keflavik

We're flying back to Boston today at 5pm. I'm really sad that our vacation has come to an end. Turns out that the guesthouse we were moved to "Gistihusid Langerholt" wasn't all bad. Though that doesn't mean Hotel Budir is off the hook (Hotel Budir I am still mad at you).

While the inside was really basic, we could see Snaefelljokull from our window. Spectacular! We also spent the morning exploring the area around the hotel and walking out to the beach.

Check out the glacier in the back. The hotel owner's son also mentioned that the Northern lights, usually visible from the hotel, were starting to appear again. We set our alarms for 3am and 4am but saw nothing. Ah well ...

The surroundings:

We left the Snaefellnes peninsular at about 11am and had some time to spare so we stopped by Nautholsvik Thermal Beach in Reykjavik. One of the "must sees" in Reykjavik according to one of the guide books, but I didn't find it particularly interesting.

Le sigh ... we leave Iceland with fond memories!

Accomodation:
Gistihusid Langaholt or Guesthouse Langaholt (Gistihusid = Guesthouse)

I highly recommend Guesthouse Langaholt. It used to be a farm but was converted to a guesthouse in the 60s when the owners decided to go into the tourism business. While it isn't as fancy as Hotel Budir, it is charming in its own way. The setting of the hotel is lovely with mountains and the ocean in the backdrop. The owners are extremely hospitable and friendly. More of a "real Icelandic".

Also, not all rooms at Hotel Budir have a view the Snaefelljokull :P

View from Guesthouse Langaholt:

The room:

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....

2008-08-30T17:44:00.002-04:00

Do you remember this episode of Saturday Night Life? The one with the Scandinavian art dealers and Will Ferell? I think I get it now ...

( It must be true, all Icelanders know each other! )

Me: You played in a band with Bjork's sister?
Icelandic Hotel Owner: No, Björk
Me: Bjork?
Icelandic Hotel Owner: No, Björk
Me: Bjork?

And iterate ...

The SNL Nuni video is here:

Visiting Art Dealers - The top video clips of the week are here

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 9: Food and Botched Resrvations ... How Cruel

2008-08-30T17:33:00.006-04:00

We stopped by a farm Bjarnarhofn where the family has been making putrid shark for generations. (Near Stykkisholmur) You can read more about our visit on my food blog.

The final product:

Slabs of fermented shark hanging to dry:

To get over the trauma of the putrid shark tasting, we headed to Narfeyrastofar in Stykkisholmor for a delicious dinner of local lamb and trout. It was almost 8pm when we got out and started our drive to Hotel Budir where we had reservations.

The parking lot at the hotel was the most crowded we'd seen in all of Iceland (outside of Reykjavik). As a city girl at heart, I was pleased to be back in civilization. The place was bustling as I stepped in and I was happy. The inside of the hotel was also nicer than the boring Ikea, minimalist style hotels we'd been staying at.

How unprepared we were for the surprise that awaited us.

Through no fault of ours, the hotel had incorrectly penciled our reservations in for a different day and did not realize it till a couple days earlier. They then tried to contact us by phone but couldn't reach us (DUH we forgot to unlock our phones). My question is, why didn't they call someone who was contactable instead?

So anyway they had no rooms left. My nice evening stolen from me. I was SO MAD. We ended up having to drive to a different guesthouse about 15 minutes away. At least Budir payed for our room that night, but that doesn't exactly measure up unless they give us a free trip back.

Accommodation:
Planned for Hotel Budir
Relegated to Gistihusid Langerholt (See my review of Langerholt here.)

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins at Latrabjarg

2008-08-30T03:03:00.005-04:00

We had to catch the 2pm ferry (Ferry Baldur) from Brjánslækur (Brjanslaekur) in the West Fjords (southern part) across the bay to Stykkisholmer on Snaefellnes peninsular. It's a 3hr ferry ride and saved us HOURS of driving. Our car came for the ride for an additional $US35. Yipee!

This meant we had a couple hours to visit the bird cliffs at Latrabjarg, also the westernmost point in Europe and an hours drive from Hotel Latrabjarg. We were all excited because we love seeing wildlife (if you haven't guessed this already).

When we got to the bird cliffs at 7am and it was eerily quiet, windy, and not a soul in sight. Aren't there supposed to be thousands of birds here? Not suspecting anything we hiked up the cliffs for about half an hour and still nothing! Where were the puffins?

No people, no birds ...

I was not a happy camper at this point. Drenched by the rain and freezing from the relentless wind, while trying to find non existent puffins, I decided to give up. Anyway we learned later that the puffins left early this year. How UNFAIR! The guidebooks said they leave in August and September.

Isn't this false advertising. See the excerpt from the Rough Guide below. I was of the impression that we'd still get to see puffins at the end of August. Hrmp. OK OK rationally speaking wildlife is impossible to predict.

Although the guillemot is the most common bird at Látrabjarg, it’s the thousands of puffins that most people come here to see. The high ground of the cliff-tops is riddled with their burrows, often up to 2m in length, since they nest in locations well away from the pounding surf, ideally surrounded by lush grass and thick soil. They return to the same burrows they occupied the year before, almost always during the third week of April, where they remain until August or September. - From the Rough Guide

I am also annoyed that the folks at Hotel Latraburg failed to mention the departure of the puffins, even though we asked specifically about it.

But we saw a cute baby gull. No that isn't any consolation.

Also on the way to Latrabjarg is "The Most Beautiful Beach" in Iceland, Breiðavík. I suppose one of the few with "normal" sand.

A beautiful day for a boat ride. The captain claimed they saw orcas on the way over to Brjanslakur! But we weren't so lucky.

Sights covered: Latrabjarg, Breidavik, Ferry Ride, Stykkisholmur (Stykkishólmur), Berserkjahraun, Budir.

Accommodation: Langerholt Guesthouse near Budir on the Snaefellnes Peninsular.

What I wish I'd known:
Don't get me started on the puffins ....

Latrabjarg is about 2 hours from Brjánslakur. Leave yourself additional time because the ferry only sails twice a day in summer and you don't want to miss the boat.

More in the next post ...

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 8: A Hellish Driving Day in Iceland's West Fjords!

2008-08-29T03:03:00.006-04:00

Drove: Holmavik -> Latrabjarg via Ísafjörður (Isafjordur)
It's gravel galore!

Not one of our best days. We woke up to raging winds and I got trapped in the car door while trying to get into the car. SIGH. Not a pleasant experience I tell you, trying to hold the door open while the wind tries to crush it on you. I sure regret not doing more bench presses in the gym.

As our car shook in the winds, I kept wondering if our tiny Toyota Yaris would get blown over. Is this even possible? Wish I were a bit heavier to add weight. Why why why were we so cheap? Should have upgraded to the SUV.

Nevertheless, the SO managed to brave the winds for some photos.

Here's a church in Holmavik. The town is really quiet or maybe everyone (aside from silly tourists) was home taking refuge from the crazy winds.

Oh no, it's the end of the world!

On the curvy fjord roads with crazy winds blowing. Hey isn't a Fjord supposed to be protected from such things? I don't even know if its raining or sea water. Whatever ...

This photo is soo deceiving it's misrepresentation. It does not reflect at all how bad the weather was. Dear Mother Nature, just adding a rainbow does not make it all OK ...

OK here's some proof. See the windsock? It's straight:

Isafjordor:

We eventually made it to Latrabjarg. The driving took us almost the entire day without too many stops. Left Holmavik at about 10am and reached Hotel Latrabjarg at around 6ish in the evening.

Anyway that's it. Today was kind of a stressful day for me, even though I wasn't the one driving (haha!). Lots of mountainous gravel road. Being a worry wort, I was afraid the car would blow off the cliff or break down. There was also this weird rattling coming from our gear box. We think it's wind related.

Accommodation:
Hotel Latrabjarg. $130 a night with shared bath. $180 a night with private bath. Another drab hotel but clean.

Sights covered:
Navigated the West Fjords. They should sell t-shirts saying "I survived the West Fjords". I'd buy one. =)

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 7: Off the Beaten Path - Grettislaug Pool

2008-08-28T03:01:00.005-04:00

Driving Route: Akureyri -> Glaumber -> Saudakroker -> Holmavik

Sort of. Today we spent the morning in Akureyri and then started our drive towards Holmavik in the West Fjords. Akureyri is the second largest city in Iceland. Pretty cute though there wasn't much to do in terms of sight seeing.

Akureyri:

Church in Akureyri:

Along the way we stopped at Glaumber to see the 18th century farm houses, then detoured to Grettislaug where there's a natural hot pot!

Glaumber is probably the oldest structure we saw in Iceland. Everything else we've seen is rebuilt or new (1900s). The farmhouses are small and low to the ground!

Cemetery near Glaumber:

Grettislaug is a pool from Grettir's Saga near Sauðárkrókur. According to the Rough Guide it is "off the beaten path". Well not so much anymore since it's now written up in the book. There were 2 other couples there. It is somewhat hard to get to since it's 20km towards the coast via gravel road.

The naturally hot pool where we took a dip. The water is geothermal but not sulphuric (YAY) :) The weather was cooperative that day and even a little hot so we had to alternate being in the water and outside, but it was nice and I worked on my tan while chatting with a nice Canadian couple. We spent a little too much time there not leaving till around 4pm for Holmavik but it was absolutely worthwhile.

Company at Grettislaug:

Saw some gorgeous Icelandic horses along the way:

As we drove towards Hotel Laugarholl near Holmavik, the weather got increasingly treacherous. It was almost 9pm and it had started raining. The wind picked up as well.

Sights Covered: Akureyri (church, Nonnihaus, town center), Glaumber, Saudarkroker, Grettislaug

Accommodation:
Hotel Laugarholl near Holmavik. It's 20km on gravel road from Holmavik (in the middle of nowhere) which took us longer than expected. The hotel itself has quite a few rooms and I was amused by the owner. He's this little old guy in his hotel fortress surrounded by his "stuff". He's technically saavy with his Macbook, large flat screen TV and satellite internet. I wasn't expecting this being so far out in the country. Hehe!

Hotel Laugarholl itself was basic like most of the places we'd been staying. Nothing to write home about. It was about USD$140 a night with private bath.

See where it is on a map.

Our room:

>> Take me to Day 8!
My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja

2008-08-27T03:00:00.004-04:00

We didn't oversleep today! I think it's fate that wanted us to head to Askja on a perfect day.

The weather in the interior today was very mild and a little sunny. We weren't expecting much having somewhat gotten used to the unpredictable weather here so this was a big bonus!

This is the Askja bus ( Askja Bus Tour ) which departs from the Myvatn Info Center at 8am. Looks kinda decrepit but don't mock it. It has super large wheels (all 8 of them!) that allows it to double up as an SUV. This bus crosses small rivers.

We stopped by a couple places along the way. Mostly streams. At one of them we sampled the glacier water that tasted nice and crisp! (Poland Springs it is not HAHA) One of the stops was also where the Apollo astronauts trained (it's supposed to resemble the moon). I wasn't that impressed since it looked like erhhh most of the interior. But what do I know, I've never been to the moon ...

A stream:

The lunar landscape:

Finally we reached Askja! In case you're wondering there were several toilet stops along the way (campsites). Iceland never fails to amaze me since they have very clean toilets everywhere! Even in the most remote of places ....

It's a pleasant 2.5km hike to the caldera. It's a desolate kinda beautiful out there! A perfect setting for a luxury resort / spa IF the weather wasn't so treacherous :P Apparently it can get really windy and cold. One of the other travelers we met at the hotel said that the wind was extremely strong and they needed a winter jacket while out there a couple days earlier. They are Austrian so it must be freezing right? HAHA

I don't think anything grows in Askja. To get a sense of the grandness of it all, check out the 2 tiny people at the end of the cliff.

You can take a dip in the crater though the path down is quite steep and muddy. The water is warm (22 deg) by some standards and stinky by all standards. We had to suffer a mixture of sulphur and BO trapped in the beard of a fellow passenger :P URHGK

Anyway the trip lasts about 12 hours. It leaves at 8am and returns at about 7.30pm. You can buy tickets from the Myvatn Info Center and the cost was about US$150 I don't remember exactly.

Places covered: Askja

Accommodation: Akureyri. We decided to spend the night in Akureyri to reduce driving time to the West Fjords the next day.

What I wish I'd known:
Bring clothes you don't mind getting dirty so you can slide down the slippery muddy slope to the crater. Also bring a change of clothes and a towel. All of which we didn't have.

Oh and in case you are wondering, yes bring a winter jacket and dress in layers. We went in late August and we needed all this.

>> Take me to Day 7!

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 5: Jardbodin Nature Baths - Spa Myvatn !

2008-08-26T13:34:00.004-04:00

In the evening, we headed to Myvatn Nature Baths for a soak in the nice warm geothermal water. It's right next to Hverir so I suppose it's the same water, laid out in a more civilized way. Beats jumping into the stinky sulphur pools at Hverir. It's about a 5 minute drive from our guesthouse in Reykjalid (near Myvatn).

We didn't go to the Blue Lagoon near Reykjavik since our friends told us that this one was way better. And they were right!

A sublime experience at sun set with with the mountains as a backdrop ...

LOVED it! Even though the water was rather sulphurous smelling :) There's nothing like jumping into a heated bath when it's chilly out.

What I wish I'd known:
Myvatn Nature Baths is open till midnight daily!

Bring your toiletries if you want to take a shower there instead of back at your hotel. They also have hair dryers in the ladies room.

>> Take me to Day 6!

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 5: All Fossed Out at Dettifoss

2008-08-26T03:00:00.005-04:00

Driving Route: Around Myvatn -> Dettifoss -> Asbrygi Canyon -> Husavik -> Mvyatn

We didn't let the morning's events put a damper on our mood. Rearranged our schedule and toured the Myvatn area in the morning. I think Myvatn is really one of Iceland's gems. For one, this region gets less rain than the Reykjavik area! HAH Also the volcanic activity around here really makes for a beautiful and varied landscape.

OK too many words. How about some photos.

Mini tephras around Myvatn:

A small part of the lake:

At the top of Hverfjall. It's made up of volcanic ash.

Dettifoss posed a bit of a problem. The only way to get there is via 30km of gravel. We hadn't driven much on gravel previously and I was concerned that it would damage the little car and tires. Eventually, we proceeded anyway since we saw many similar rental cars navigate the road.

Presenting Dettifoss! Anyway that's it for Fosses. I really don't want to see anymore.

We even took on the rest of the gravel road to Asbrygi Canyon another 20km away! It's really quite underrated and pretty there. You can go right up to the Canyon wall without riding a donkey. :P

You can see the horseshoe shape here.

Places covered: Dimmibogur, Hverfjall, Myvatn Lake surroundings, Dettifoss, Asbrygi Canyon

Accommodation: Elda Guesthouse

What I wish I'd known:
It's easier to drive on gravel at high speeds. We drove slowly initially (30km) and boy was it painful. The rattling was driving us crazy and giving SO carpel tunnel. However, when we sped along at 70km/hr things started looking up. The rattling stopped, perhaps since we were "flying" over the gravel. Another plus is you arrive at the destination sooner haha!

>> Take me to Day 5 "Jarbodin Nature Baths"

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 5: Iphone Malfunction

2008-08-26T02:10:00.002-04:00

You would think that in this day and age phones would go off "silent" when an alarm is set. Apparently it doesn't. *SHRIEK* Missed our super jeep tour this morning to Askja which was costly. We had to pay half the tour value for nothing (USD$200). *#!*@!!

>> Take me to "Day 5 - All Fossed Out"

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 4: The road to Myvatn

2008-08-25T01:39:00.004-04:00

Driving Route: Holmur -> Hofn -> Egilsstadir -> Reykjalid (Myvatn)

Today was mostly a driving day. Destination Reykjahlid which is near Myvatn. We considered stopping by a village in the East Fjords. After circling a couple tedious baby fjords, we changed our minds. I'm getting a little concerned about traveling the West Fjords. More of the same? * Shudder *

We're leaving Holmur here. The rainbow is consolation for dreary skies and rain.

We got to Reykjahlid in good time! We left Holmur at around 7am. Stopped in Hofn to stock up on groceries. Also stopped on the way for lunch and arrived at Myvatn around 3pm. We went to the info center which was very helpful. You can book bus tours to Askja from here. There's also a tour to Lofthellir ice caves which we sadly had to miss since it's only offered certain days. :(

Last eruption at Krafla was 1976. That sure explains the random steam coming from the ground and the smell of rotten eggs at Leirhnjukur.

Huge crater viti (can you spot me in red?)! The water in the crater is aquamarine blue and so pretty. Heard the water is freezing though.

Places Covered: Hofn (kinda drove through down), Eastfjords (drive by), Myvatn Area (Krafla, Leirhnjukur, Viti, Hverir)

Accommodation: Elda Guesthouse. Good central location. Basic but clean with sinks in-room. Decent spread at breakfast. (Don't expect too much it's Iceland!) Cereal, toast, cold cuts, tomatoes, cucumbers, pickled fish, coffee, juice. They also have free wireless and a well equipped kitchen (no flies). The bathroom smelled stinky like sulphur but I suppose it's the region and the water. A variety of people staying here. Some families with older kids, some younger couples like us. Also some European tour groups?

What i wish I'd known:
Don't be clueless and book your tours (Lofthellir, Askja) ahead of time.

Askja Bus Tour
Super Jeep Ice Cave Tour - From Hotel Reykjalid
Super Jeep Askja Tour - From Hotel Reykjalid

Could easily have spent another half day at Myvatn. I only scheduled 2.5 days.

>> Take me to Day 5!

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (Channel U2)

2008-08-24T16:55:00.005-04:00

Driving Route: -> Vik -> Skaftafell National Park -> Jokulsarlon -> Holmur

It's amazing how seeing the sun can instantly lift my mood. And gosh darn there was much sun today! I am elated! I love the black beach at Vik. I realize I may be biased because this is the first time I've seen the sun in days.

Saw some puffins near the cliffs though from afar, and I mean AFAR. Luckily I've mastered the art of puffin spotting from our trip to Boothbay Harbor in Maine where we cruised around searching for them. All 2 of them :P they are endangered in Maine.

We befriended a Spanish family along the way, let's call them the Carlos. 2 kids in tow. One is 5 the other 9. They seem to have the same itinerary. Being the competitive b#@*# we are, we tried to beat them but barely. Apparently we are slower than 5 year olds. But hah they didn't make it to Jokulsarlon before the rain. Take that tortoises!

Dramatic landscape on the way to Skaftafell National Park. Old lava (* nods knowingly*) because there is lots of moss on it. Saw the various glaciers along the way, there are many, though don't ask me to identify any of them.

The biggest of them all! Vatnajokull icecap.

We had time to do a couple short hikes around Skaftafell. Svartifoss with the infamous basalt columns. We also took a hike up to the glacier.

Foot of the glacier. The temperature dropped all too quickly ... then I got chased by 2 renegade black sheep. SERIOUS. They wanted to impale me with their horns. I'm pretty sure they were incarnations of the devil.

The glacier lagoon (Jokulsarlon) but then the rain came ...

Places covered: Vik (Black beach with troll rocks), Skaftafell National Park (Glacier, Svartifoss + Unknown foss), Jokulsarlon (Glacier Lake)

Accomodation: Holmur Farmhouse (Set infront of a glacier. Not sure what these people are thinking). Farmhouse itself was aight. It's 33km from Hofn. The rooms were clean and cosy though the kitchen was rather nasty with flies. GROSS!

Picturesque setting of Holmur Farmhouse:

What I wish I'd known:

You don't have to hike up the mountain *cough hill* to Svartifoss. You can drive!

You can schedule an extra half day for a guided tour onto the glacier. Plan ahead. Don't be lazy like me. I was all exhausted after booking hotels and car rental. Here's a link to Glacier Jeeps that runs the tours to Vatnajokull glacier.

>> Take me to Day 4!

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Iceland Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted

2008-08-23T11:47:00.004-04:00

Driving Route: Reykjavik -> Thingvellir -> Geysir -> Gulfoss -> Skogafoss -> Vik

We're starting to think the weather here (to put it mildly) sucks. It's been raining almost constantly since we got here yesterday. And the rain, well it's evil. Not normal rain that falls straight to the ground. It's rain that speeds perpendicularly toward you, ensuring that you get drenched.

So the Golden Circle was a wash out. Kinda fun once you get used to being damp all the time. Well that was till we were literally soaked through at Gulfoss!

Thingvellir (Þingvellir, rift valley) was rather cool. It's where the European and American plates meet. Though to really get a feel for it, you have to evoke your imagination, conjure up large vikings riding cute stubby Icelandic horses to parliament. :)

Geysir is well sad. The original Geysir is dead - hasn't erupted in years. You get to see a smaller one which is lame. Being an ugly American wannabe, Old Faithful at Yellowstone is way more spectacular. But we consoled ourselves by saying that Geysir is what all geysirs are named after, albeit dead.

Gulfoss is quite spectacular. I know, Americans want to know how it compares to Niagara Falls. Well it isn't as big, but I thought it was neat since you can get up really close, right up to where the water descends over the edge. With the wind blowing wildly, sounds of water gushing, and water flying everywhere, it is worth a trip!

The Golden Circle is very easy to do in a day, especially in the summers when there's no snow and days are long. Just so you don't think Iceland is totally unworthy, the Golden Circle really pales in comparison to the rest of the island. I suppose it's all famous since it's close to Reykjavik and easily accessible.

We also had time to stop by Skogarfoss along the way. Not so grand after Gulfoss but still very pretty.

Places Covered: The Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Gulfoss, Geysir) and Skogarfoss

Accomodation: Hotel Lunde at Vik (South Iceland). Really a no frills $170 per night kinda place. The windows are small and weird. Like a prison cell. Not that I've been in prison before. I suppose it's clean at the very least.

What I wish I'd known:

1) Really, bring waterproof pants. They aren't kidding. Even if you think they're ugly. Sigh, the price I paid for vanity.

2) There is a gravel road between Thingvellir and Geysir. Our first encounter with gravel. We were so innocent then ....

3) Buy a good road map. Lonely Planet is for bus takers. Rough Guide is well, rough!

>> Take me to DAY 3!

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik

2008-08-22T16:59:00.008-04:00

We got into Reykjavik at 7am this morning on the red eye from Boston (5hr flight).

Hopped on the Fly Bus which took us to our B&B. The Fly Bus is pretty convenient and is catered to tourists. Here's how it works. A larger bus takes you from the International Airport (Keflavik) to the main bus terminal (BSI) in Reykjavik. You then get off and transfer to a smaller shuttle bus where you tell the bus driver the hotel you are staying. All for about US$20. (Here's a post on TripAdvisor that has all you need to know about FlyBus.)

Reykjavik is a very walkable city. We started off exploring the city center, Tjörnin, near our hotel, then walked to Hallgrímskirkja church. Unfortunately for us, Hallsgrimskirja was under renovation and we didn't get to see the famed basalt columns!

By the harbor. It's rainy and cloudy so there isn't much of a view.

Kaffitar, Iceland's Starbucks! Was happy to get my fix.

After lunch and a short nap, we walked to Perlan and then had dinner at Þrír Frakkar (Jamie Oliver's favorite?).

Perlan:

Smoked puffin appetizer from Trir Frakkar:

There's a good Reykjavik City Map here.

Sights Covered: City Center, Laugavegur, Harbor area, Hallsgrimskirkja, Perlan

Accommodation:
We stayed at Reykjavik Central. It's a small B&B and not very well known, but I found it on Priceline Europe. It's really cheap (by Icelandic standards) at about USD$100 a night and the rooms are very clean though you have to share a bathroom with 2 other rooms. There's also a kitchen you can use and free wireless (slow).

The location is very central and is about a 5 minute walk to the city center. I was very satisfied with the quality and price. We payed more at other hotels / b&bs in Iceland that weren't as nice.

What I wish I'd known:
Since Reykjavik Central is a B&B you need to let them know ahead of time if you're arriving early.

My Iceland Travel Blog Index

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Iceland Hotels - Useful Sites

2008-08-12T18:33:00.002-04:00

While planning my driving trip round Iceland, I found it most difficult to find hotels outside of Reykjavik and Akureyri where we spent most of our time!

There isn't one central site which lists these places.

Also, many of the hotels or guesthouses are expensive (and not very nice) though some offer shared bathrooms for a lower price. The whole shared bathroom concept is rather strange for me (college is over!) but at least the bathrooms are fairly clean.

Here are the sites that were most helpful.

Reykjavik and Akureyri:

Trip Advisor Iceland Hotels

Priceline UK

Hotels.is - Quite comprehensive

Outside of the big cities:

Edda Hotel Chain - Great if you are driving. Hotels throughout Iceland

Fosshotels - Hotels throughout Iceland but not as comprehensive as Edda

Icelandic Farm Holidays - B&B / Farm accomodation throughout Iceland. Site is hard to use but there is a wealth of accommodation options.

My Iceland Travel Diary details the hotels we stayed at each night with photos and approximate prices:

Day 1: Hello Reykjavik!
Day 2: Battling Nature? Not for the Faint Hearted
Day 3: It's a Beautiful Day (channel: U2)
Day 4: The road to Myvatn
Day 5: Iphone Malfunction
Day 5: All Fossed Out
Day 5: Jarbodin - Spa Myvatn
Day 6: The Barren Interior and Askja
Day 7: Off the Beaten Path
Day 8: Hellish Driving Day!
Day 9: Revenge of the Puffins
Day 9: Food and Botched Reservations
Day 9: Nuni? No Nüni ....
Day 10: Time to Say Goodbye

Ferry Baldur - Cut short your drive!

2008-08-01T18:15:00.001-04:00

If you're visiting the West Fjord by car, I highly recommend supplementing your trip with Ferry Baldur. It is a car ferry and very reasonably priced.

The ferry takes just 3 hours via Flatey Island. It leaves from Brjánslækur in the West Fjords to Stykkisholmur on the Snaefellnes peninsular. After navigating kilometers of gravel road in the fjords, words cannot describe how grateful you will be for this! The ferry ride is also scenic.

The ferry:

Locals on Flatey Island:

Seatours, the company that runs Ferry Baldur also offers various trips. The Gourmet Adventure tour sounded interesting but it wasn't offered on the days we were there. Who can resist nature, birdwatching and fresh sea urchin!

Here is the complete listing of the tours they offer.

Travel Store - Recommended Products - Iceland

2008-01-24T22:01:00.000-05:00

Your essentials for a self planned vacation in Iceland:

Recommended Guide Books
Lonely Planet and Rough Guide are somewhat complimentary. It's good to compare the sights and recommendations. Rough Guide is more geared to visitors who are driving. Lonely Planet is targeted at people who are planning on touring the island by bus (Reykjavik Excursions). The map is the most important if you are driving since this will cost you big bucks in Iceland:

Reading Before You Go
Immerse yourself in Icelandic stories, history and culture. These will enhance your visit to Iceland.

Apparel and Gear
Don't leave home without those waterproof pants and rain jackets!

For your Ipod

Travel Store - Our Recommended Products

2008-01-24T21:58:00.003-05:00

We stand by these products. They've been tried and tested by us!

Shopping List for Cambodia

Shopping List for Iceland

Shopping List for Ecuador and Galapagos

Shopping List - Gadgets

Country Travel Guides

2007-09-12T03:28:00.003-04:00

These are the launch pages for our resources and blogs for each country!

Ecuador - Quito and Galapagos

Iceland - Around the island including the West Fjords

Malaysia

Siem Reap

Quito Trip Report - Day 2 (Old Town)

2006-09-26T14:30:00.001-04:00

In Quito, you want to be careful because petty theft is common with the occasional armed robbery. Watch for pick pockets and do not walk around with your digital SLR (warning from the locals). Tourists have been mugged before. I hope this explains our lack of photos.

We started off the day with a visit to a food market in Quito. This is where the locals eat. Sadly it's been a while and I can't remember the name.

Ecuadorians like their pork as you can see We had a plate of the pork and chicharones downed with some coke for breakfast. Delicious!

We strolled around the old town for a bit and saw the presidential palace. I apologize for the poor photos. We had to do "drive by" shootings of photos, quickly stashing away our cameras. I know this sounds paranoid but our friend who lives there really freaked us out.

One of the next stops was the archbishop's palace that's been converted into a touristy mall of sorts with some restaurants. We ate at the one on the top floor. I know, I know we seem to be eating alot today! There's only limited time and we have to sample what Ecuador has to offer.

Ecuadorian ceviche is served with pop corn. Isn't it unique?

We were planning on taking the Teleferico up, one of the high points in Quito for views of the city. Unfortunately, we didn't end up going as I think my AMS would have killed me. I vividly remember throwing up outside the Hilton where we went for pizza.

Quito Trip Report - Day 1 ( Otavalo, Peguche Falls)

2006-09-25T16:59:00.001-04:00

Our trip to Ecuador was my first time in South America proper (not including Mexico). Quito is the second highest capital city in the world after La Pez in Bolivia so you really want to be prepared for altitude sickness! I speak from experience.

On arrival in the evening, I was feeling fantastic though this didn't last so long. Being so high up, and located near the equator, the weather is quite pleasant, reminiscent of California. Our friend from college met us at the hotel and handed us 2 packets of tea (Cocoa de Matte) or mate de coco which was supposed to help with mountain sickness. P being the blackhole that he is devoured the tea in a gulp. Mistake number 1, I took a sip and tossed mine out. I think this is where my troubles began!

The next day we boarded a local bus with our friend (yes the theme of this vacation is do it as the locals do) to Peguche Falls near Otavalo. It's a 1-2hr bus ride away. Ecuador has a good system of public buses. It was all fun and novel initially but I wasn't so sure I enjoyed the ride on the way back. The blaring soap opera on the TV and the smell of garlic permeated did not go well with AMS.

Mistake number 2 was climbing a small hill near the waterfall. Probably not such a good idea on the first day in high altitude.

Peguche Falls:

The Country Side:

We eventually ended up at Otavalo Market and had lunch at Mi Otavalo, near Calle Sucre (Calle Morales). There was live music and we got to sample local food. I'm sure it's geared towards tourist but it was good and really cheap!

Corn and Cheese Appetizer (L) Pork Main Course (R)

Inside Mi Otavalo:

After some shopping, we eventually made it back to Quito in time for dinner. We went to Cafe Mosaico which has a great view of the city (old town) at night. This is a fancy restaurant for locals but tourists have the permission to be badly dressed!

I was feeling sick and uncharacteristically not hungry so I ended up with an avocado cheese soup. My taste buds cannot be trusted on this day but the texture of the cheese was spongey.

Cafe Mosaico
Manuel Samaniego N8-95 and Antepara
Itchimbia, Old Town
Quito, Ecuador

I couldn't sleep that night and that was made worst by a tingly sensation in my fingers. I tried popping some Diamox for altitude sickness but wtf that thing doesn't work. Should have started taking it BEFORE the trip. I had a huge migraine the next morning and fixed it with some Excedrin. Was miserable ...

What I wish I'd Known
I wish I'd known I'd have AMS.
I wish I'd taken diamox before the trip.
I wish I drank that coco de mate.
I wish I wasn't so gung ho and had taken it easy on the first day.
I wish we were in a nicer hotel being sick and all.
Oh so many regrets for this one ...

What's the recommended length of a Galapagos Cruise?

2006-09-25T16:08:00.000-04:00

Penguins seen on one of our Panga rides.

Of course this depends on a variety of factors.

Do you want luxury or can you rough it out a little?
Typically the luxury cruises have bigger boats and tourists have to be broken up into smaller group to get onto the islands. We went with a First Class | Tourist Superior boat (ratings vary) that sleeps 16 people. The crowd was varied, couples, students, single travelers, and retirees. No kids. It certainly makes shore activities a lot more efficient. A luxury boat has its advantages too, more stability, larger cabin, and better facilities.

How comfortable are you sleeping on a boat?
Due to booking last minute (a common theme with me?), we weren't able to get an 8 day cruise and had to settle for a 5 day one. That turned out to be a blessing for me because it can be quite rough sleeping in cramped quarters on a boat! Many of the other passengers on the trip also echoed my sentiments. However, I really loved the islands so it is a tough call.

We decided to spend our remaining 2 days on Isabela Island (the largest of the Galapagos islands). Comparing the 2, we definitely saw a lot more while on the cruise.

Are you prone to getting very sea sick?
I don't usually get seasick. While on the Seaman Yacht, I was ok during the day however both P and I weren't able to sleep the first night. The boat usually travels at night and it was extremely choppy. We got smart the second day however and took some Dramamine which helped us sleep like babies.

How much are you willing to spend?
Luxury Class: > $3,000
First Class: $1,900 - $3,000
Tourist Superior: $1,500 - $1,900
Tourist: $1,000 - $1,500

Do you need to visit every island?
I was very satisfied with what we saw. Every creature imaginable. We swam with turtles and penguins, sunbathed with seals, saw reef sharks, blue footed boobies, red footed boobies, and iguanas. Don't quote me on this though, since we don't know what we missed not having seen all the islands! My favorite island was Genovesa though with more time we could have gone out to Fernandina.

A lovely view from Bartolome Island:

Ecuador and The Galapagos

2006-08-10T11:55:00.001-04:00

I've always thought the Galapagos Islands were super cool since learning about them in my high school biology class. What I didn't know till recently however, was that you could actually visit these islands! WOW

I quit my job 2 weeks ago to go back to school so P and I took the opportunity to do some travelling. It was difficult finding information on Ecuador online and I wasn't able to find much information or reviews from other travelers. Besides chronicling our vacation, I figured this would help other people who're planning a trip.

We had an amazing time (Galapagos is simply gorgeous), met people from all over and shared our experiences. From them, we picked up lots of word of mouth travel tips we wish we'd known earlier. Never fear, I will be sharing them on this site.

Do drop me a note if you find this useful :)

And read on for our itinerary!

Our Itinerary

2006-08-09T12:27:00.001-04:00

Day 1:
American Airlines Flight from Boston to Miami, Miami to Quito (8-9hrs). Arrived in Quito at 8PM.

Day 2:
Day trip to Otavalo where the craft markets are. It's about a 1-2 hr bus ride.

Day 3:
Explored the old town in Quito.

Day 4:
Took the TAME flight to the Galapagos (Baltra) with a short stop over in Guayaquil. Arrived at approximately 10am and boarded our boat, The Seaman. Visited Bartolome island.

Day 5:
Sailed to Genovesa Island. Land tour and snorkeling.

Day 6:
Sailed to the Plazas (near Santa Cruz). Panga ride and land tour.

Day 7:
Docked at Santa Cruz Island. Charles Darwin Research Station and The Highlands. Spent the night in Hotel Fernandina in Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz).

Day 8:
Took the speed boat to Isabela from Santa Cruz. It's a 2 - 4 hr speed boat ride! Checked into La Casa de Marita in Puerto Villamil (Isabela)

Day 9:
Attempted to visit Los Tunelos. *@!@!

Day 10:
Returned to Santa Cruz. Caught the second TAME flight (12.30 PM) back to Quito.

Day 11:
Horseback riding around Volcan Cotopaxi.

Day 12:
Left on the 6.30am flight back to Miami/Boston. Home sweet home!

Map of the Galapagos. The airport is on Baltra.

Ecuador Cliff Notes

2006-08-08T12:40:00.001-04:00

Top 10 Random Facts

1. Quito is in the same time zone as Boston (1 hour behind coz of day light saving)
2. Currency used in Ecuador is the USD
3. The Galapagos Islands were named after the giant Galapagos Tortoises
4. Quito is near the equator and in the Andes (2850 ft above sea level)
5. Hence the weather in Quito is cool 50-70 F. Bring a fleece!
6. Airport tax is US$25 per person. You pay when you leave.
7. There is a US$100 entrance fee to the Galapagos for foreigners. Locals pay $6.
8. There are more than 40 different varieties of corn in Ecuador
9. Ecuadorian Spanish is the clearest of all South American countries. Many people go there to learn Spanish.
10. Ecuador is vulnerable to earthquakes and volcanic eruptions!

Vendor Reviews - Zenith Travel Ecuador

2006-08-07T21:56:00.001-04:00

I'm the kind of shopper who likes hearing about people's experiences word of mouth. It builds my confidence in the service or product I'm about to purchase. Before the trip, I wasn't able to find many unbiased reviews (i.e. not affiliated with zenith) on Zenith Travel so I'm going to do my part for the travel community by posting one.

We liked Zenith because they have a good online presence and their website had information in English. More importantly, they offered the cheapest rates for the Galapagos Cruises.

We used Zenith to book our Galapagos Cruise, plane tickets, hotel in Quito, and hotel in Isabela. Initially we were concerned with the company since their responsiveness to e-mail was intermittent and not knowing Spanish made it difficult to communicate over the phone. Full payment (via paypal, an additional fee is added for credit cards) was also required before the trip. We felt uneasy about this, however, thankfully for us, we had a friend in Quito who made a trip down to the agency and verified that they did in fact exist to put our minds at ease.

Eventually we also found that one of the travel advisors, Maria Antonieta speaks great English. P was also able to catch her on MSN messenger once. She was extremely helpful and helped us make all our arrangements.

We didn't receive much paperwork before the trip which was disconerting. However, we did get a cute travel pouch and a folder with all our required documents when we arrived in Quito. This was given to us by our driver who picked us up from the airport. Zenith Travel also provides a 2 complimentary transfers from the airport to your hotel (and the return) if you book through them. They have a pretty nice van!

Maria did a great job arranging everything for us. Almost everything went without a hitch. Our Galapagos flights were confirmed for us and we did not have to worry about a thing. The only hitch was that the van which was to bring us to the airport broke down and did not show up the morning of our flight. Luckily it wasn't a big deal since the hotel was able to call us a cab pretty quicky.

Marco (I think he is the owner) was really apologetic about this and even showed up at our hotel to talk to us when we returned. He arranged for us to have a free meal at Adam's Ribs. We totally did not expect this. It was really thoughtful of him!

To end off, I would definitely recommend Zenith to my friends and will most certainly use them again. They organize trips to Peru as well and that's next on my list!

One more thing, it is better to book your hotel rooms through the travel agency since you'll get a better rate. We had to extend our stay an additional night at the hotel and they charged us a higher rate since it was not booked through the agency?!

Seaman Yacht Review (Galapagos)

2006-08-07T16:59:00.002-04:00

The Seaman

It's hard choosing a Galapagos Cruise because there're so many choices. Many people recommend the book Barry Boyce's Guide to the Galapagos. I managed to snag this from the library but didn't find it to be that helpful. They had reviews of some of the more established companies, but none of the newer ones. I don't remember most of the boats discussed but we liked the Samba which was highly recommended and within our price range at approximately $1350 per person for 8 days.

Unfortunately, being notorious procrastinators, by the time we got down to booking the cruise, there were no more spots left on the Samba. :( Eventually we settled on the Seaman based on recommendations from a friend in Quito.

The 5 day / 8 day cruise dilemma
Most people recommend the 8 day cruise so we were highly dissapointed that we weren't able to get on the Seaman for 8 days (sold out!). Now that we're back, we didn't feel like we missed out at all. In fact, most of our fellow travelers were glad to be off the boat. It's a rough life at sea! We were lucky that the waters were fairly calm during our trip and I didn't get seasick for the most part. However, most of us needed a little extra help going to sleep at night (dramamine) because the boats travel at night and boy is it bumpy ride!

My recommendation is to go for the shorter cruise if you're not much of a sea farer like me :) We got to see all the animals and we were pretty sick of wild life by the end of it (and we actually love animals too). We extended our stay at the Galapagos by a couple days on Isabela island. It was nice to be back on land!

Seaman Amenities
The boat was really clean and in great condition. There are 8 air conditioned cabins that sleep 2 (bunk beds). Each cabin also has a tiny window, though they warn you on the first day that these cannot be opened since water can get in when the boat is moving.

Of course I have to review the bathroom since I am all about the bathroom. :) They were really small (even for me at 5ft!) and smelled intensely of disinfectant. Not particularly luxurious. There is a sink, shower, and toilet.

There is also a sun deck on the boat. This was the place to be the first couple days since the ride is smoother and you could snooze in the sun. I thought it was funny that by the third day, we were all burned so the deck was empty!

All in all the boat was clean and well maintained, my only complaint is there was no hot water in the showers! Everyone I talked to did not get hot water. Only DH managed to have a warm shower on the first day.

Seaman Crew and Guide
The Seaman crew was excellent. They were the ones who cooked the meals, served you at dinner, cleaned the rooms, hosed down your feet after you return from a land expedition, and navigated the pangas. They even made a surprise birthday cake for one of our fellow travelors, M!

The guide, Mauricio on the other hand did not meet our expectations. Being a guide was really just a job for him, and he lacked any passion or enthusiasm. He did what he had to but did not go above and beyond. We were also quite peeved when he opened our tip envelope immediately and started counting the money infront of our faces!

Food on the Seaman
Food was good on the boat. We were given 3 meals a day and a snack upon return from our shore activities. The snacks could be empanadas, juice, or fruit. Meals were buffet style and included a salad, vegetable, carb (rice or potatos) and a meat dish (chicken or fish). Breakfast always included toast, cheese, fresh juice, and eggs or french toast. It was all clean and healthy compared to the food in Quito.

Breakfast of museli, banana, and cantalope juice:

Scuba Diving
The Seaman also allows diving. There was an average of 1 dive per day that was usually done in the mornings before any of the other activities. Something happened to one of the passengers on the boat however, that I thought was unreasonable.

One of the guys was unable to descend because his regulator wasn't working. Maurisio however charged him for the dive because he expected him to go down on his spare! I thought that was ridiculous! The guy should have asked Mauricio to switch regulators with him to see how he'd like that :p Another reason why Maurcio wasn't much of a guide.

Shore Activities
There were 2 activites per day. One in the morning and one in the afternoon. Both morning and afternoon activities typically included a land excursion and snorkeling. They're enough to tire you out so you can go to bed early. Breakfast is usually at 7am.

Quito Hotel Review - Hostal Jardin del Sol

2006-08-07T00:33:00.001-04:00

A hostal is cheaper than a hotel but nicer than youth hostels. They are common through out South America and often family run.

We decided on this option since it's cheap ( < US$50 per night) and would provide a more interesting/friendly atmostphere than the usual 5 star hotels. We originally wanted to stay at La Casa Sol but being the procrastinators that we are, the place was fully booked by the time we got down to it. We eventually settled on Hostal Jardin del Sol on a friend's recommendation. It turns out that La Casa Sol and Jardin del Sol are right across the road from each other!

Our friend recommended this particular one since it was right in the heart of the Mariscal (gringo land) and you can walk anywhere. Internet Cafes, bars, clubs, restaurants are all close by. The other hotels we looked at were a couple blocks away but apparently it isn't safe to walk around at night even for short distances (armed robberies) so this place was the most convenient. Even the hotels lock their doors at night .... hrmmm.

The view from our room. Notice the spikes on the balcony.

We found the staff to be very friendly and the rooms generally clean. Obviously you shouldn't expect five star quality hehe. I was rather grossed out when I saw a piece of dried gum stuck to the edge of the night stand...eeeks! But I shan't complain too much. Given the price of $33 per night for a double, I'll suck it up.

The bathroom. I'm a girly girl and squeamish about unfamiliar bathrooms. Being an optimist, at least there was plenty of hot water.

Something else to be aware of is that some rooms facing the front of the hotel can be noisy at nights. We could hear the music from the bars down the street and after the clubs close at 3am, you start hearing the drunk tourists making a scene. The second room we got was much better and very quiet.

One weird thing I noticed about the hotel however is that the double room only has 1 large pillow that P and I were to share?! WTH! I like my pillow flat and he likes his firm and fluffy. One size doesn't fit all and the pillow certainly didn't help my AMS! (Yes I'm a wimp and had AMS. I was miserable for the most part.)

In the dining room. Breakfat of eggs, breads, cheese, fruit, and juice is included.

We heard from other travelers that there are other hostals in the area of similar quality but cheaper. So if you're out to save money you might want to shop around a bit. Otherwise Jardin del Sol is a decent choice since you know what you're getting.